Our Cruise - Day 8 - Ephesus, Turkey

Today we woke up in Asia: Kusadasi, Turkey. After docking, Carol, Sheila, and Wande took the 20-minute trip to Ephesus, while Terry stayed behind to tend to Julie.

During the bus ride the tour guide (more business-like and not as warm and fuzzy as our Istanbul guide, Manny) explained that in Turkey teachers are paid very poorly (much, much worse than in the U.S.). This has become very bad for the Turkish educational system, but has benefited the tourism industry because many teachers change careers to become tour guides.

Today was a fabulous day to visit Ephesus, one of the oldest settlements/cities in the world. Once a bustling seaport, it is now several miles from the Mediterranean and is nestled on a plain between two mountain ranges. Human settlement in Ephesus occurred during the Neolithic period, approximately 6000 BCE; however, it was most prosperous during the Hellenistic Period when it was affiliated with several Maritime Leagues in the Mediterranean.

This city contains the ruins from one of the earliest Christian civilizations. It is estimated that nearly 250,000 people used to live here. Ephesus is considered to be the most intact ancient city that can be seen today, and is home to the Celsus Library, the Grand Theater, the Stoa Basileios (Royal Walk), the Gates of Hercules and one column of the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. (The Seven Ancient Wonders: The Great Pyramid at Giza; the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus; the Colossus of Rhodes; the Hanging Gardens of Babylon; the Lighthouse at Alexandria; the Statue of Zeus at Olympia; and the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus in Turkey.)

We began our day with a gift from the Tourism Bureau of Turkey, a small urn for the holy water at the home of the Holy Mary, an Ephesian medallion and an “Evil Eye” pin (which we had to pin on to disperse any bad karma!). Our first stop was the House of the Virgin Mary, in the hills above Ephesus. Shaped as a cross, the simple brick dwelling was visualized in the 19th century CE by a stigmatized German nun, Anna Catherine. She had never been outside of Germany, but described the hills above Ephesus, the home, and the location of the home with amazing accuracy.

There is some historical data that supports Ephesus as the last home of the Virgin Mary. The Apostle John is known to have sworn to care for and stay with the her. He is known to have lived and died in Ephesus, where he is buried at the site of the St. John Basilica. The first basilica in the world dedicated to the Virgin Mary is found in Ephesus, and at that time in history, basilicas were only established in areas in which a person had lived. The First Council of Ephesus of 431 CE (the third ecumenical council of the early Christian Church), met at this Basilica of the Blessed Virgin.

When we arrived, we had 30 minutes to visit the house, light candles, and visit the prayer wall where millions of pilgrims leave their prayers. Somehow we did it all, although we did get scolded for stopping to have our picture taken by another tourist at the doorway (who had the misfortune of being right behind us, and was the one most scolded), delaying entry to the building! Somehow, Wande even had time to send her mom a postcard from the Virgin Mary post office.

Next stop, the largest existing ancient city in the world. Ephesus became part of the Roman Asia Empire in 189 BCE, and during the Augustan Period became one of the most important cities of Roman Asia. Construction of the triumphal arch, the aqueduct system, and the Royal Walk made Ephesus a destination for military and trade. The Royal Walk was a two-story grand walkway 1,175 feet long with 67 Ionic columns and bullhead capitals. Carol, Wande, and Sheila stopped for a picture on the walk!

The Library of Celsus, discovered in 1905-1906, is a fantastic two-story structure with porticos, windows, and intact statues. The library was built from funds bequeathed by Celsus, Governor of Asia Minor in 114 CE, and housed over 12,000 books.

Wande, Carol, and Sheila jostled for a position on the stage of the Grand Theater, built on the slopes of Mount Pion with a seating capacity of 25,000. Better judgment prevailed, however, and a decision was made not to attempt the steep stairs that descended to the stage. Rather, we opted for balancing on the seating and braving the underground tunnel to emerge onto the Royal Walk and an entourage marching to the beat of “Fanfare of the Common Man”. The Caesars, their ladies, the noblemen and senators, and the gladiators staged a 15-minute costumed reenactment of a near-fatal battle. Fortunately for the fallen gladiator, it was thumbs up at the end.

After being out in the heat for several hours and imagining an excellent Turkish lunch, the tour guide suggested that we skip lunch and complete the rest of the day. Everyone in the group looked around waiting for someone to speak up and say that lunch should be first, but that never happened. So, our growling stomachs were off into the ruins of St. John's Basilica and what is believed to be the burial site for St. John.

While visiting this very beautiful site on a hilltop, we could see in the distance the one remaining column of the temple of Artemis. It was disappointing to hear that the British had pilfered most of it and that it’s in one of their museums. But, one can see the footprint of the temple that once covered 345 x 181 feet and utilized 106 columns.

Somewhere along the way we also went to the archeological museum of Ephesus. This was a highlight, with the remains of the colossal statue of Artemis, excavated from the temple. A lovely goddess, and symbol of fertility, she is embellished with eggs covering her torso and a gown covered with cow udders. Additionally, a room dedicated to burials included “Hocker Jars,” named after the scientist, Hocker, who first discovered this method of burial. The Ephesians buried their dead in the fetal position, in large earthen jars, so that they could be “reborn” in that position. The only problem was, during an earthquake (and there were many in Ephesus), many of the jars would fall over and break…not so great for the townspeople.

Most important, it was finally time for LUNCH!! After the exquisite meal in Istanbul, we had been imagining all day what was in store. However, we all thought it was a little odd that the tour guide wanted the evaluation of the trip before lunch. We all had surprised looks when we pulled up to a water park, complete with huge slides and screaming kids. We thought that we were going to turn around in the lot, but then the bus stopped and everyone was instructed to get off and head upstairs.

Lunch was served at a Turkish family resort, and was a buffet of grilled meats and vegetables, curried noodles, Turkish bread, spring rolls with baked feta, etc. We were told, however, to save the cocktails for the rug show and exhibition meant to be our last stop.

And then we were off to the rug presentation, where Sheila would not be denied her shopping desires a second time. Back to town, we arrived at the rug shop, where we were greeted again with “Lion’s Milk” (raki), Turkish wines, Turkish beer, Turkish coffee and teas. Our Turkish hosts were warm and knowledgeable. “Oohs” and “aahs” sprang from our mouths as we sat around the room sipping our libations while the carpets rolled with flourish at our feet.

At the end, Wande and Carol ducked out, only to come back 20 minutes later to find Sheila in the top floor gallery, commanding eight men who were arguing prices and rolling out the many carpets. Wande and Carol thought that one of the salesmen looked familiar….it was our tour guide who was convincing Sheila to buy the beautiful carpet! Being held up high by three men was a beautiful Mediterranean blue carpet, looking very hopeful. In the end, a beautiful Turkish carpet was purchased (since Julie and Terry were a safe distance away on the ship), with Wande and Carol laughing about the central role played by the tour guide.

In the mid-afternoon, after Julie took more pain meds and enjoyed a long nap, Terry visited the port town of Kusadasi, just off the dock. It was quaint and a little lonely, with most of the tourists were still in Ephesus. He took the opportunity to engage in conversation with local shopkeepers, who were warm, curious and very friendly. He found the closest mosque, tucked away off the main street, and observed a policeman performing prayers in an alcove in the front of the mosque. It was intimate and he felt a little intrusive, so moved on.

He walked down a narrow alley filled with shops and restaurants, and was invited to enjoy lunch in a restaurant garden by the owner. While not hungry (he had already enjoyed lunch with Julie on the ship), he did stop for a Turkish beer. The restaurant was not too busy, with only a few locals and tourists, but it was bright and buoyant in the garden with the golden sun warming everyone’s spirits.

The owner tried taking one of his young sons around to proudly introduce him, but the boy was shy and kept darting off. Determined, the owner brought the boy around to a table of tourists and tried again, but the boy was already plotting his escape. This time, however, he spied Terry aiming his camera at him.

The boy stopped; this kind of attention he did not mind. He clearly enjoyed having his picture taken. Terry snapped a couple of shots when the boy’s older brother came up to join the fanfare. After snapping a couple more photos, Terry showed the boys their pictures, and they were absolutely delighted. Then, suddenly self-conscious again, the little boy ran off to the protection of the kitchen.

Finished with his beer, Terry thanked the owner, bid adieu to the boys and went in search of another T-Shirt. He found a bright red one with the Turkish flag on it. He returned to the ship, where he found Julie still peacefully sleeping, enjoying her respite from the pain of her broken arm.

After shopping, and exhausted from the full day (and bargaining), Sheila, Wande and Carol all returned to the ship. They visited Julie and Terry’s cabin and regaled them with their adventures. Sheila pulled out one of the small urns, which she had filled with holy water from the House of the Virgin Mary, and sprinkled it on Julie’s arm. They all showered gifts upon Terry and Julie, including a Turkish hat for Terry. Soon, we pulled out of Ephesus, saying goodbye to the wonderful and warm people and country of Turkey.

Julie and Terry did not go to dinner, and had planned on ordering off the room service menu. Soon, however, there was a knock at the door. Carol had ordered dishes for them from the dining room menu (which was superior to the room service menu), and enjoyed a delicious dinner in their cabin with the beautiful view out their balcony.

Wande, Carol and Sheila arrived at the table before the Tones, and two of them (you’ll have to guess) switched the table numbers back to their rightful places. Soon, Mrs. Tone arrived and explained that Mr. Tone had a cold. Mindful that the seating arrangements had changed, she took her proper place and said nothing about it. Everyone enjoyed a fine dinner and shared their experiences of the day.